Iran, a country known for its dynamic past, amazes tourists and visitors alike with its present. It is a nation highly misunderstood, a nation to which one must travel to realize its beauty, importance, and amazing history.
During my summer visit to my birthplace, not only did I experience what I have never experienced before in my life, I became aware of who I am, an Iranian-American. Leaving for Iran on May 31, I left the nation that I grew up in to become more aware of the nation I identified with. A time span of 15 years separated my departure from Iran and return once again.
Arriving in Tehran in the middle of the night, my family and I were greeted by a massive number of family members who were excited to see us. We were set to stay at our uncle’s house on the other side of Tehran. As we were driving through the streets, I remembered the scent in the air, and I felt as if I had been living there my whole life.
Expecting to be the individual who looked the most like an American in Iran, I was hit by a big surprise. Many of the Iranian youth were up to date with new music, trends and Western fashions. DVDs and VCDs with hits like “Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone” and “The Lord of the Rings” were popular, as well as cell phones.
Iran dazzles us with the range of different people seen on the streets: from old traditionalists from the Islamic revolution era, to the young involved in political protests at the University of Tehran, Iran is going through a process of another civil revolution.
There are large murals of Ayatollah Khomeini and many martyrs of the Iran-Iraq war on the walls of buildings, and many Iranians still reminisce about those times. But nearly 60 percent of the population is under the age of 25. and they barely remember the Iran-Iraq war, let alone the Islamic Revolution.
What I witnessed within my family was a tension between politics and religion. Some families who were present at the heart of the revolution during the 1970s find it difficult to relate to one another. Some family members want to maintain the current Islamic state, others want Iran to reform. Many women do not want to go through the hassle of wearing the hijab, a traditional head covering in the Islamic culture, or follow Islamic rules for certain individuals, causing family members to lose contact with each other.
However, Iranians are very friendly people, even during these difficult times. What keeps Iran together in times of difficulty is the fact that they can identify themselves as Iranians and hold national pride. Iranians bring with themselves their past, which many hold dearly.
In the city of Isfahan, there are many sites for tourists to visit and learn about Iranian history. The Imam’s mosque, located in Isfahan, is the most popular site to visit because of its architectural beauty and famous inner bazaar, where many artisans work on spectacular pieces of art. Prior to the revolution, it was the place where the Shah Reza Pahlavi used to watch polo games.
Another city of importance is Mashad. Located nearly 450 miles north of Tehran, this city holds the burial shrine of the Eighth Imam in the Shi’a sect of Islam. Many pilgrims come to Mashad to visit the shrine and ask the Eighth Imam to ask God to answer their prayers. Shi’a Muslims value the Ahlul Bayt, the family of the Prophet of Islam, and seek the Eighth Imam, who serves as an intermediary for their prayers. The shrine is surrounded by a mosque, where a beautiful architectural setting is displayed. The dome and the two minarets are made completely of gold and many sections of the mosque are handcrafted in gold.
Some visitors who travel to Iran may think that Iran does not have the luxuries of many countries, such as the United States. With reformist president Mohammad Khatami changing the country, the nation has raised its standard of living. Today, most families have computer access and Internet connections.
Food was one of the many things I thought Iran would be short on. I was wrong. Everywhere you go, you see a food store, whether it is a restaurant selling kabobs with rice, or a small store selling various products ranging from Iranian-style Coca-Cola to baby diapers.
Iran has basically everything you could ask for, but it is hard to come by. People work extra hours and weekends to try to raise a little extra money so that their family can enjoy a better standard of living. However, not all Iranians are that fortunate. There are teenage girls who have turned to prostitution and the number is rising everyday. According to the BBC, there are currently 300,000 prostitutes in Iran. With that many women turning to the streets, prostitution is a serious problem that Iran has to face in the years to come.
Mehmooni is Farsi for gatherings at people’s homes. For the first month, we attended different dinner mehmoonis, right after the afternoon World Cup soccer games. Every night, the host of each household and his family would ask us the same kind of questions:
“What careers were we pursuing?”
“What does America think of Iran?”
“Do I remember anything from Iran prior to leaving the United States?”
My trip to Iran has been a journey I will never forget. From the famous kabob restaurants to the artifacts in many museums, Iran has amazed me both as an Iranian and an American. With my passport in ideal condition, to avoid military restriction for the next five years, I hope to return to Iran to learn more about it, and to make up for the past 15 years.
Political system is changing:
Iran’s political system has changed since reformist President Mohammad Khatami took office in 1997. The youth, who account for nearly 60 percent of the population, take great interest in his reform ideas. After the Islamic Republic of Iran was established after the overthrow of the shah, the Iranians are now looking to reform the conservative government running the state.
With Khatami in office, many Iranians are looking for a brighter future where the government and the people work together side by side.
The political system to decide which legislation is executed comes down to Supreme Grand Counselor Ayatollah Ali Khamenei. With nearly 95 percent of the population casting their vote for his presidency in 1981, Khamenei now faces pressure from many sides to allow reform from Khatami. With protests, and many Iranians practicing their democratic rights under Islamic law, there is incresasing pressure to make changes to the laws and legislation.
With clerics holding the upper hand in government, conservative ideas are still intact. However, many reform ideas on issues such the economy, population, and foreign policy are becoming popular. With the economy performing poorly, prostitution has been a rising issue that officials have to deal with.
Other issues the government battles are drugs, rising population, inflation, and student protests. Conservatives and reformists alike have to work together to find resolutions to these issues.
Teenagers are changing the country:
What makes Iran unique is the diversity among the youth population. There are teenagers who love to call themselves Iranians and hold their values dear, and others who want to be Iranian by name while adopting Western culture. With the influence of Western culture being emphasized through the Internet, satellite dishes, and music, some youth are lost at what they see.
A lot of young people are into the latest music, and many expressed their interest in soccer during the World Cup 2002.
Other popular activities are hiking, DVD movies, and art.
Many religious families have accepted some parts of Western culture, however, there are other parts they dismiss. Even though many teenagers have accepted Western culture in general, they value education, religion, and politics. With last year’s protest at the University of Tehran, the youth were proclaiming that they are politically active and will be heard.
Eight years of war between Iran and Iraq:
Iran defended itself in the war against Iraq, where
they were being outnumbered. This war lasted eight years, and was defined as an invasion-opposition war by the world media. After overthrowing the Shah in 1979, Supreme Grand Counselor Ayatollah Khomeini declared Iran an Islamic Republic.
Thinking Iran would be vulnerable to an attack, Iraqi President Saddam Hussein went forth with an invasion. When disputing over land control in the Persian Gulf region of Shatt El-Arab, Iraq decided to attack northern Iran on September 22, 1980. This war gained little territory on either side, but many casualties were incurred on both sides.
With retaliations on both sides over oil reserves, air strikes, and tank battles, the war was ended by a United Nations resolution on July 20, 1987. However, with more battles to come between the two countries, the war did not officially end until 1988.
With nearly 600,000 Iranians casualties, Iranians emphasize martyrdom for the soldiers who fought to keep Iran from being invaded by Iraqi attacks. With both countries withholding prisoners of war and bodies of soldiers, the two nations stand together on some issues, while not seeing eye-to-eye on others.
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